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Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Are you happy with your hairdresser and salon?

How many times in your life do you think you will go to a salon to get your hair cut or styled? Let's see, if you start when you're about 2 years old and go 6 times a year until you're about 70 years old, that turns out to be over 400 visits. Even more impressive is the amount of money (over $12,000 USD for average $30 visits) you will end up spending in your lifetime to cut, style and care for your hair. This doesn't even include special hair care products or additional services such as coloring, perms, treatments, etc.

With these statistics, it is safe to say that our hair is an important part of our lives. Finding the right hair stylist and salon is crucial to the end results of any hair style or process. Emiliano Vitale, Creative Director for E Salon in Wahroonga Australia, says, "All clients look to us for direction. It is up to us to listen carefully, understand our clients needs and desires and then to translate this into a style which is specifically designed and tailored to their lifestyle and personal needs." We have invited Emiliano to visit with us and answer a few questions about salons, hairdressers and hair styles. Below are his insightful answers:

Question: Men and women spend thousands of dollars every year going to salons and caring for their hair. Yet most people report that they are less than satisfied with the results. When you read some of the salon reviews out there you will find people that like the look of their cut/color/perm but are very unhappy with the service. Some describe salons with arrogant, rude or inconsiderate hairdressers and staff. Why is E Salon different in this respect? How do you address complaints from clients ?

Ans: First of all, hairdressers are a reflection of their leader. You don't have rude or arrogant team members--you have rude and arrogant owners. Hairdressers globally, actually Humanity globally wakes up every morning and wants to give their best. Then they get to work and are rude only because they are not appreciated or lack self worth. It is the duty of every leader to dedicate themselves to their team and to inspire their team to cooperate in a spirit of harmony.

The only reason we are successful is because I dedicate myself to my team. I made a promise a long time ago that when one of my team members leave, they will leave a better human being and a better hairdresser. It is easy to blame our team members for making mistakes and for not being good enough. But I can assure that if we ALL, including OWNERS, realized that the person looking back at us in the mirror was responsible for the state of our life, then this industry, let alone this world, would be a greater place.

I train my people to see themselves as truly great human beings, and by doing this they will see greatness in everyone else. I promise to give them an extraordinary life and that is what my purpose is. My team members are the most pleasant and remarkable people I know.

At E Salon we treat the Human Being, not the hair. We encourage and welcome any feedback. Complaints are an opportunity to show the world what kind of human being you are. Many hairdressers take a complaint like a personal attack on them. As a leader it is our responsibility to train our people properly and nurture them and their spirit.

I am sorry; there are no rude and arrogant hairdressers---just incapable leaders. Always see the human being and give your best in evey moment in every situation. What you give is what you get---it is that simple.

Question: When you first meet with a client that wants a new hair style, what is your mode of operation?

Ans: The first thing I do is ask many questions, such as 'Why do you want to change your look? What don't you like about your hair?' I try to find out as much history as possible, including anything he/she has every been unhappy and happy with. Next I like to feel the hair to determine its thickness and texture. Then I look for any unusually growth patterns. Finally, and most important, I look at face shape, bone structure and the clients overall style. I focus in on suitability and I try to enhance the strengths they may have, i.e. eyes, lips cheekbones, etc. Sample photos of hair styles the clients like are also very helpful in letting me know what my clients like.

Question: As a salon owner, how important is it to keep abreast of current hair and fashion trends?

Ans: It is imperative that we stay abreast of what is happening in the world of hairdressing. Though it is more important to know who you are in relation to fashion. In today's world every fashion designer and hairdresser is doing his or her own thing. We must find what we identify with in terms of fashion, and with that initial inspiration, make that evolve into something that is uniquely ours.

It is so important to be a leader not a follower and to be true to yourself. In the state of truth you will be able to tap into a universal source of what is fashion anyway. That is a purely surreal experience when you come up with an original idea, and realize that others have had the same idea, very cool.

Question: A lot of hairdressers aim to please and give their clients the hair cut that they want. For example---a client brings in a photo of a hair style he/she really likes and wants to get the same look. Do you ever tell a client that ---NO that hair style or color will not work for you?

Ans: Absolutely! If I feel a hair style doesn't suit a client, I will not hesitate to let him/her know how I feel. That is why my clients pay me $110 a cut. Having said that, I must also contradict myself by saying, hair is about the person wearing it, not the hairdresser.

By knowing who you are and believing in yourself, you attract clients who like what you do. Hence you will very rarely have client in your chair that doesn't like what you do.

Question: What salon products do you use and how importat are they to creating workable hair styles?

Ans: We use L'Oreal styling products. My favorites are; Gloss Wax, Liss Control and Pure Gloss Spray in the Techni.art range, Smoothing Serum in the Texturline range by Artic (L'Oreal) and Kiwi Blow serum in the Kiwi range.

Without products, I don't believe we would really be able to produce the results we are looking for.

Question: It's one thing to come out of the salon looking fabulous. It's quite another creating the look on your own at home. Do you offer styling advice and training for your clients?

Ans: I offer the correct advice on which products to use and how to use them to achieve results.

Question: What can we expect for hair style trends for the Fall 2004? What will be the popular colors, lengths, styles?

Ans: From me, you can expect short crowns with longer lengths, creating seamless layers and transition from short to long. I am still working with asymmetry and disconnected lengths. Fringes are still very hot. I love anything Rock Chic looking. I try to make my models and clients look like Rock stars.

Colors are more a technique thing rather than actual colors, though I am working a lot with mahogany and nut browns. Highlights are bolder yet they are peeping through the hair, not on the top of the hair. I have been working with this technique for a couple of years, just varying the placement of color. At this very moment we are working with major contrast in color.

Question: Where do hair style trends start anyway?

Ans: I believe hair trends do not start, they evolve. They are definitely started by the hairdresser rather than the client. For example, let's look at the past season. Hair trends have a very sixties and eighties influence. Now that definitely didn't start recently, though it evolved from that period and was adapted to today.

I will try to start my own trends. At the moment I am working with my GARAGE Collection in the salon and my L'Oreal tour. The collection features extremely short crowns, varying lengths, with asymmetry and disconnection. Trends are inspired by something. They can be inspired by a movie, a song, a painting---with inspiration anything goes. You must trust your instincts. Fashion is what you LOVE. LOVE IS FASHION

Question: On a global scale, do you see a trend of how new hair style fashions evolve?

Ans: Personally the entertainment industry inspires me. I feel Hollywood has a major influence on setting trends. European hairdressers, especially the English are great translators of this. To take the mantle as trend setter, you definitely need to earn it.

I know many hairdressers look to fashion and the designer's new collections for inspiration. You know that anything goes, and it is usually started by some kid on a street corner who has cut their own hair, and it has caught the eye of some top stylist, designer or even director.

Fashion is what you make it and who you are in context to that fashion.

Question: What are some of the current hair concerns that your clients are experiencing and what sort of treatments do you offer?

Ans: In Australia, hair is very good at the moment as we are in winter. If anything, the hair is a little dehydrated. We offer the complete range of Power Dose treatments from L'Oreal. They are quick and easy treatments and make such an immediate change in the hair. My favorite here is the Shine Blonde treatment that is a toner as well as a treatment. Results are awesome!

Question: Do you have hard and fast hair care advice that applies to everyone?

Ans: Use very little conditioner. Apply it first to mid-lengths and the ends, then comb it through the rest of the hair. When applying mousse, apply it slowly and with a comb, little by little. Always finish with a gloss spray for shine.

Question: There is a study that says one in two women color their hair. A lot of women do it themselves. What type of color products do you use and why would you recomment that women go to E Salon for color processing?

Ans: We exclusively use L'Oreal Professional products. We recommend that clients come to us for color because we are trained professionals. COLOR TO HAIR ACTS LIKE PAINT TO A SKETCH, IT GIVES IT LIFE! The reason I feel that one in two women color their hair at home is our own fault. We need to spend more money on training our people and take responsibility ourselves. We tend to blame the companies for making and selling hair color products in the supermarkets. If we were doing our jobs correctly, the companies wouldn't need to sell in pharmacies and supermarkets.

Question: Finally, what are your recommendations for someone seeking a new hairdresser or salon?

Ans: Go in for a blow dry and take notice of all the work going on around you. Look for someone who puts love into his or her work. The are a rare breed and when you find them, cherish them. You will notice they stroke the hair, like you would pat a cat. They put their heart and soul into their work and they look at what they are doing and the way the hair falls. The best hairdressers will ask about you, not talk about themselves. Always pick the stylist in a salon with the worst haircut. The best hairdressers cut everyone elses' hair.

I tend to get a lot of clients by people asking my clients on the street who cuts their hair. Don't be afraid to ask lots of questions and bring in pictures. When you find a happy and content team of hairdressers, you are sure your money is going to someone who is making a difference in the lives of their clients.

Black Hair Basics

The typical hair and hair follicles of those of African descent are tightly curled, thus producing hair that spirals. Black hair also typically has a larger diameter than Caucasian hair and retains less water, thus its relative “kinkiness.” The many styling methods utilized on Black hair cause concern with hair loss. Black hair is very strong, fortunately so because Black hair styles cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp.

For example, using a hair pick to pick the hair up to a bushy style is a very damaging process due to the constant pulling causing stress on the hair shaft as well as the follicle. In fact, combing Black hair in general can create high stress on Black hair and cause breakage, which perpetuates dryness. Conrowing and braiding are methods of hairstyling that pull the hair tight, and this can cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp resulting in hair loss. Braiding that results in the hair being pulled very tight can cause traumatic alopecia, a hair loss that is caused by trauma to the hair and scalp. Traumatic alopecia is usually reversible with proper hair care.

Hot combs and relaxers used to straighten hair can cause a great deal of heat and chemical damage to hair and scalp, which can also cause traumatic alopecia, and over time can cause permanent hair loss. This becomes especially true when the heat or chemically processed hair is pulled tight by rollers or a hot curling iron.

Hot oil conditioners are excellent for Black hair, as hot oil treatments contain proteins and polymers vital to repairing the hair cuticles. Hot oil treatments involve heating the oil and putting it into the hair and scalp, then covering the hair with a plastic cap to allow the oil to soak in. Follow the recommendations on the treatment you are using for the amount of time you should leave the treatment on the hair. This process can heal breakages and shinier stronger hair will be the result.

Consider that hair relaxers commonly used on Black hair contain lye or similar chemicals that break down the hair shaft. Left on beyond the recommended time, these chemicals would eat right through the hair and cause it to fall out in clumps. This is why these same products are used in products like Drano® to clean clogged drains which often are clogged by hair. No-lye relaxers are very popular today, mainly because it leads people to believe that the product is not caustic. This is far from the truth. The combination of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate are combined to form guanidine hydroxide, which could just as easily clean a sink. Repeated use of such products can cause some degree of hair loss, and if scarring occurs while using these chemicals, the hair loss can be permanent in that area of the scalp. One must ask themselves is it wise to place such caustic chemicals in the hair on a regular basis for the sake of desired appearance? The question must be answered by each individual, however the facts should be known.

There is little that can be done to alleviate this syndrome without changing the typical hairstyles of African Americans. There is a catch-22 concerning relaxing Black hair, since combing natural Black hair causes so much stress and breakage of hair, while chemicals cause so much harm to the hair and scalp as well. There are a few hair-relaxing products on the market that use chemicals and are somewhat less harsh than sodium hydroxide (lye) or its popular equivalent in “no-lye” relaxers: calcium hydroxide (quicklime) mixed with guanidine carbonate. One such product is called Natural-Laxer® and Sahara Clay® by Baka ProductsTM that has been on the market since 1990. This product is all natural and because it does not contain many of the harsh chemicals of commercial relaxers and actually contains only a finely ground plant called Daphne Gnidium and clay from Africa it is figured to be relatively safe. Of course this product does not straighten hair in most instances the same way as commercial relaxers, however it does tend to make Black hair more manageable. There is yet another product on the market that is reported to be 92-96% natural which is called Naturalaxer Kit In A Jar™ that does not require the applicant to comb through the hair during the application, which results in a lot less damage.

Of course the bottom line is once again, if you can leave your hair in its natural state then you will experience less stress and damage to the hair and thus prevent at least one cause of hair loss. There is a growing segment of the Black population that is becoming comfortable with wearing their hair in natural styles. One such style is dreadlocks. There are many rumors and myths concerning dreadlocks, as there is little proper information available concerning this style, and as with anything that is misunderstood many myths arise around it. Dreadlocks can and must be washed; otherwise they will smell badly like any other dirty hair. The best process to use to wash dreadlocks is to use a residue-free shampoo. Most commercially made shampoos leave residue and can cause hair not to lock, lending fuel to the rumor that hair had to be dirty to form dreadlocks. Clean hair actually locks much better than dirty hair, as dirt is a residue in itself that will inhibit hair from locking. For best results one should use a fragrance free, conditioner free shampoo. Dreadlocks do not react well to oily and greasy substances, yet there are many good substances that are on the market today that will assist you in forming dreadlocks.

Dreadlocks are formed through a process, not simply by not combing or brushing the hair. Generally, one should start with hair about two inches in length, and the hair should be separated into even squares of hair and twisted gently together using a bonding or gel substance. Many use natural beeswax containing no petroleum, while others use loc and twist gels specifically formulated for locks. Once the hair is separated and twisted into small locks, it is important that they are left alone and allowed to bond naturally. The length of time it will take to lock will depend on the coarseness of your hair, but one can normally expect to wait several months before locks begin to form. While the hair is locking, it will need to be washed. Here is where washing should be extended for a while if possible, so that the hair can be allowed to lock for two weeks to about a month without manipulation. When you do wash your hair, use a stocking cap or “do-rag”, and low-pressure water to make sure that the newly forming locks do not come loose. It will be necessary to rinse for a much longer time than you normally do, because of the lower pressure of the water and the lack of direct manipulation of your hair with your hands. The water is good for your hair and locking process, so this is not a problem. It is also imperative as indicated before that you use a shampoo that does not contain a conditioner and leaves as little residue as possible. A little research on your part will be necessary here; your health food store should contain a variety of natural shampoos. Have a skilled professional or a friend re-twist the hair gently, reapplying the twist gel or beeswax that you used previously. Repeat this process every two weeks to a month, the longer you are able to wait the better, and within a few months your hair will begin to lock. Again, if you have a fine grade of hair rather than a kinky grade of hair, a beautician skilled at forming locks (“locktitian”) or a friend who is very familiar with the hairstyle should be consulted. Even though dreadlocks are mainly a hairstyle for Blacks, there are other races that have people that enjoy the hairstyle. In general, it tends to be a style of hair that in the long run will give the hair and scalp needed rest from the rigors of chemical and heat treatments and rigorous combing and brushing, and therefore can contribute to longer life for your hair.

Cleanse and Stimulate your scalp with the right Shampoo!

Shampoo contributes to good hair care. In our quest for the perfect makeup, the vital importance of good hair care is mostly ignored. Your hair is usually the first thing people notice about you and gives you away in many ways. Is it dull, dry and damaged, or is it shiny, vibrant and healthy? Well-groomed hair contributes to that perfect look and the confidence in your personality. There are so many shampoos, conditioners and other hair care products available today. One needs to find out which one is best for ones hair.

Don’t take shampoos for granted.

Don’t take shampoos for granted. Unfortunately, it is difficult to tell a good shampoo from a bad one, especially when cost, fragrance and foaming are the main purchasing criteria. In fact, good foaming virtually means too much shampoo was used, or rather, wasted. Ideally, the head should have just enough lather to help your fingers massage the shampoo into the scalp and lubricate the hair. This allows sebum and other oils to destroy foam quickly. Today, different shampoos are available for dry hair, permed hair, color treated hair, limp hair, and of course, normal hair. Then there are shampoos which are not typically found in store bought products. For these contain quality ingredients that contribute to the cost of the product. For example, salon shampoo classically contains higher quality protein based conditioners or moisturizing conditioners, thus enabling the conditioner to penetrate deeper into the hair shaft and lock in moisture.

Choosing The Right Shampoo For Your Hair Type

There are hundreds of shampoo's out there, from the Suave you can purchase at the local pharmacy to designer shampoo's like Kerastas and Philip B. that can only be purchased from speciality salons and stores. How do you choose?

First, know your hair type. It's fairly easy to know what type of shampoo your hair needs if it's permed or colored. If your hair is permed then most likely you're seeing a stylist on a regular basis and he or she has suggested a product for you. If your hair is colored you will want a shampoo that will be gentle on the color and not strip it from your hair. Is your hair dry? Oily? Thin or full and coarse?

What affect do you want the shampoo to have on your hair? Be aware of claims made by shampoo manufacturers. The only thing regulated by the Food & Drug Administration is the list of ingredients on the back of the shampoo bottle. This means that manufacturers can claim their shampoos moisturize or add volume whether or not they do.

Herbs and botanicals smell great, but their affect on the hair has never been proven. Actually most shampoos and conditioners affect your hair only temporarily by leaving product behind on your hair after you wash. They have no long term effect on the condition of your hair at all.

Herbs and botanicals smell great, but their affect on the hair has never been proven. Actually most shampoos and conditioners affect your hair only temporarily by leaving product behind on your hair after you wash. They have no long term effect on the condition of your hair at all.

Choose The Right Hair Product For You

Choosing the right hair product for your particular hair style and texture can be confusing, especially with all of the hair care product advertisements we are bombarded with on a daily basis. With each commercial, each glossy ad, and each retail display case, companies do their best to convince us that their hair product has just what it takes to take our Medusa locks and turn them into tresses fit for the runway. But can they really do all that they promise? And how do you know which ones are worth investing in and which ones belong in the recycling bin?

Granted, hair products can do wonders when it comes to making your do look the best that it can. But you need to choose the right products or you else you may find yourself rinsing your money right down the drain with your latest expensive hair care product.

Must have hair products

Depending on your hair type, there are several hair products that are essential for everyone.

First, you need a good shampoo that is tailored to your specific hair type. While you don't have to spend a lot of money here, make sure to choose a hair product that contains no waxy substances. Waxy substances are used in many of the over-counter hair care products on the market today. If you are unsure which ones contain wax, stick with a professional shampoo. Truly professional shampoos can be found in salons only.

Next, you will need a professional conditioning hair product. If you need to cut costs by purchasing an over-the-counter hair care product, do it with the shampoo, not with your conditioner. Yes, you may spend a few extra dollars, but your hair will thank you for it. Make sure that your conditioner is tailored to your specific hair type. For example: If you have chemically damaged hair, choose a hair product that repairs and strengthens damaged hair.

Lastly, you will need various styling hair products. The ones you choose will depend largely on your style. A good rule of thumb to follow is this: use mousse for light, carefree and blow-dried styles; gel for curly and wet-looking styles; and pomade for textured, funky and spiked styles. A hair spray with the desired hold should be used to finish off each style.

Expensive verses inexpensive hair care products.

I'm a firm believer in that you get what you pay for, but that line seems to get blurred when dealing with professional hair products. Most people believe that when they buy hair products from salons that they are going to end up paying a great deal of money for something that they can pick up in the corner drug store for half the price. But this is not the case.

The main differences between professional and non-professional hair care products are in the quality of the products, not the pricing. I have seen high-quality professional hair products sell for as little as $5 a bottle, the same price that you would pay for many non-professional products. So, you can get a great deal on professional products. The bottom line is that no matter what the price, professional is better.

Now, are high-priced professional hair products better than the inexpensive ones? The answer is surprisingly no. While some professional lines may have individual products that are perfect for your hair and well worth the high price tag, most professional hair care product lines, even the inexpensive ones, have everything that you would ever need to make your hair gorgeous.

So, stop looking at the price tag and glamorous ads and start looking at the back of the bottle to find out what hair products are perfect for you. And if in doubt, ask your stylist.

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